Visiting France In A Heatwave: What You Need To Know

Each summer, visitors from some of the world's hottest places are shocked by just how exhausting France can be during a period of extreme heat.

Temperatures may not be much higher than back home, but the experience is different.

Once the case of a few uncomfortable weeks, heat in France has become something of a permanent fixture. And we're not ready for it.

Me, trying to stay cool in the heat but disregarding my own advice by wearing a dark color - at least I have a bandanna to wet

France simply wasn't built with modern heatwaves in mind. Air conditioning is uncommon, and historic city centers trap heat.

A few transport disruptions and sleepless nights later, even experienced travelers start to wilt.

None of this means you should cancel your trip, but traveling in France in a heatwave requires a few adjustments

Follow the French daily rhythm

One of the biggest mistakes visitors make during a heatwave is trying to sightsee as though it were a pleasant spring day.

When temperatures climb above 35°C (95°F), the basic French lifestyle changes subtly. We get up earlier, adopt a much slower pace in the afternoon, and head back outside only once the worst of the heat has passed. You should consider doing the same.

If you're planning to visit monuments, markets or gardens, try to arrive as soon as they open. Not only will they be cooler, but also less crowded.

At lunch, consider taking a long break. Enjoy a leisurely meal or visit a museum. Better yet, why not retreat somewhere cool for a couple of hours for a rest or a nap?

This is not wasted time at all – it's the only sensible way to get through a scorching afternoon.

In my village, shops that used to close for lunch and reopen at 2pm are now shuttered for an extra two hours. Those that closed one afternoon a week are taking several afternoons off. Some restaurants are closing extra days. Others are extending their supper hours later into the evening. However they do it, people are trying to adapt.

My own schedule has changed with the heat: rise at 5am, work a few hours, take the dog for a walk before the heat sets in, then work again until lunch, eat, nap, get up in the late afternoon for the rest of the day. Instead of sleeping eight hours a night, I sleep five or six, and catch up the missing hours in the afternoon. Not ideal, I admit, but it means I can actually get things done in the cooler hours.

Also, there are other ways of keeping cool... ©OffbeatFrance

Staying cool

France is full of places where you can escape the heat, from prehistoric caves that stay cool year-round to churches whose stone walls keep out the worst of the summer. I've covered the best options in detail – where to go, what to look for, and which destinations stay genuinely cool – in my guide to surviving August in France (it's equally valid for other hot months or heatwave conditions).

Take advantage of water whenever you can - here, a summer boat tour on the river in Lyon ©OffbeatFrance

Water: more important than you think

Hydration becomes much more important during a France heatwave.

Carry a refillable water bottle (something practical like this one) whenever you're out sightseeing. Across France you'll find public drinking fountains (fontaines d'eau potable), though not every decorative public fountain is safe to drink from. Look for signs indicating the water is potable. (Or not.)

This water fountain says "non potable" - not drinkable. Make sure yours doesn't say this before you fill up ©OffbeatFrance

Many cities also set up points d'eau fraîche – dedicated cool water points – during heat alerts. Look for the signs near town halls and main squares. 

If you're eating in a café or restaurant, ask for a carafe d'eau, or jug of tap drinking water. It's free by law when you're ordering a meal. If you just order plain water, you'll get a bottle.

Pharmacies are useful stops during a heatwave. They often have illuminated signs that display the outside temperature. Of course they sell sunscreen and oral rehydration products, but they can also advise if you're feeling unwell because of the heat.

Please don't wait until you feel thirsty to take a few sips from that bottle.

When the heat changes your plans to visit France in summer

A heatwave doesn't just affect you – it affects France as well. Here are just a few ways:

• Trains: Railway tracks expand in extreme temperatures, so the SNCF may delay trains and in severe heat, even cancel them. When trains do run, the air conditioning doesn't always work. Make sure you bring your water bottle and allow extra time for connections. 

• Public transportation: In high temperatures, cities might reduce public services. In Bordeaux for example, extreme heat of 44℃/111℉ prompted the city to shut down their tram system between 10am-6pm.

• Outdoor attractions: These can be uncomfortable on a hot afternoon. I once visited the Roman ruins in Lyon and the stone steps were so hot I could barely climb them. Schedule this kind of visit for 9am instead.

• Accommodation: Don't assume they'll have air conditioning. Many French hotels, especially in older buildings, rely on thick walls and shutters. Rather than A/C, you may find a fan in your room. So check before you book.

Flexibility is essential, so be willing to change your plans. That walk you've planned will still be there in the coolness of the morning. 

If you were headed for a stroll in an area with little protection, perhaps switch to a natural area with shade or water ©OffbeatFrance

Why France has so little air conditioning – and why that's slowly changing

One of the biggest surprises for visitors, especially those from North America, is just how little air conditioning there is in France. 

That's changing, but slowly. New hotels almost always have it, and many public areas, including shopping centers and modern museums, are air conditioned. But older hotels, guesthouses, restaurants and private homes often are not.

That's because until quite recently, we simply didn't need it.

We might have suffered with heat in the south or southwest in summer, but only for a handful of days, which made it hard to justify installing cooling systems that would sit idle most of the year. That, I'm afraid, is no longer the case, but buildings and habits change slowly.

Also, historic buildings are a particular challenge because any changes, including installing air conditioning, must be officially approved.

French buildings were also designed differently. Thick stone buildings absorb heat slowly, while wooden shutters (volets) keep the sun out during the day.

My own house has stone walls that are 1m/3ft thick and if I open the windows and shutters early in the morning and close everything before the heat arrives, it's surprisingly comfortable indoors. (Upstairs in the eaves, where my office is located, it's another story and the heat there can be unbearable.)

Energy consciousness plays a role too. France runs largely on nuclear power, which keeps electricity costs relatively low, but there's a cultural reluctance to run energy-hungry appliances that weren't needed a generation ago. I now have a portable A/C unit at home but I only turn it on for a few minutes when I'm really melting and I'm on a deadline and need to work – I still feel quite guilty when I use it and I do so very sparingly – I mostly use a fan and liberally spray my face with a mister.

As heatwaves become the norm, air conditioning is spreading, providing temporary relief but probably delivering long-term consequences.

Paris in a heatwave

Heatwaves affect the whole country, but Paris deserves a separate mention.

Paris has what urban planners call a heat island effect. Stone façades and asphalt streets absorb heat during the day and release it slowly after dark. On the worst nights, it barely cools at all. (See here for specific things to do in Paris during the heat.)

The banks of the Seine can feel a little cooler towards evening when a breeze develops along the river and during summer, temporary beaches and misting stations appear as the city tries to relieve itself from the heat.

A corner of Paris Plage, Paris on the beach..

Paris has hundreds of public drinking fountains, and a handful dispense chilled sparkling water, one of those small pleasures that makes the city bearable in August.

Also, I've singled out Paris because it receives the bulk of France's visitors, but it's the same in any built-up city. 

And don't forget your refillable bottle.

A few practical tips

Before you head out each morning, look at the forecast and adjust your plans to the hot weather in France.

During a heatwave, check the official Météo-France Vigilance map before leaving your room. The color-coded vigilance system (green, yellow, orange and red) shows the level of risk in each and is updated regularly. Also...

• Pack a wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, and a bandanna you can wet and wear around your neck, even if your trip isn't beach-focused. City sightseeing can mean hours of walking with very little shade. 
• A little fan in your bag can go a long way towards coolness.
• Wear loose, light-colored lightweight clothing in natural fibers like cotton or linen. 
• Wear appropriate shoes: those cobblestones can get HOT!
• I recently bought an anti-UV umbrella to keep the sun away. It was worth the investment.
• If you're driving, never EVER leave children, pets, medication or electronics in a parked car, even briefly. Temperatures inside vehicles rise fast and there have been deaths in France involving children or pets left in cars for the shortest of periods.

A heatwave may change your itinerary but it doesn't have to ruin it. The travelers who do best in this heat are the ones who stop fighting it somewhere around Day Two – and who discover that France at 7am, or France at 9pm, is actually quite an enjoyable place.

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