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  4. Luberon Without a Car

How to Visit the Luberon Villages Without a Car

Published 22 September 2025 by Leyla Alyanak — Parisian by birth, Lyonnaise by adoption, historian by passion

You don’t need a car to enjoy the Luberon villages. In this guide, I’ll share the transport options that do exist, which villages you can reach, good places to base yourself, and a few simple itineraries to make planning easier.

Most people assume you need a car to see the Luberon — and that's a fair assumption because let's be honest, a car is the easiest way to visit hilltop villages in France... those winding roads and lavender fields look like they're just begging for drivers.

View of Gordes in the Luberon from across a gorgeEven in winter, the Luberon is spectacular ©OffbeatFrance

But if you’d rather not rent a car in France, or if you're unsure and trying to decide, there are other ways to explore the Luberon villages. 

It may take a bit of planning, but it is absolutely possible, and I'll show you how.

The Luberon without a car

The best Luberon villages without a car

Where to base yourself without a car

Sample itineraries without a car

The pros and cons

FAQ

Before you go

The Luberon, in the heart of Provence, is a landscape of hills and vineyards and stone, home to such famous villages as  Gordes and Roussillon.

It’s joyously rural and spread out, each tiny enclave set apart, usually on a hilltop, so a car is helpful. But even without one, some of its most celebrated spots remain reachable.

The Luberon without a car

Transportation around the Luberon has two parts: getting there, and traveling around once you've arrived.

Getting to the Luberon France without a car

The Luberon doesn’t have its own high-speed train stop, but you can get right to the edge of the region by train.

  • Taking the train to Avignon is the usual gateway, with high-speed trains from Paris and Lyon
  • Aix-en-Provence is another hub with connections across the south
  • Cavaillon, right next to the Luberon, is on the local TER train line and useful if you’re heading into the hills

From these towns, you can continue by regional bus to Luberon or sign up for a day tour. (If you’re the type who studies maps before traveling, consider ordering a Luberon France map to help you assess distances.)

How to visit Luberon villages without a car

Once you've reached the Luberon, there are several ways to see the most stunning Provence villages without having a car. The options are bus, cycling, a tour or a taxi. Let's look at each.

Visiting the Luberon by bus

The good news is that there are buses in the Luberon.

The bad news is that they aren't very frequent. Some run once or twice a day, and are rare in the evening.

Still, you can reach several places by bus:

  • Apt, a central town with bus connections to local towns and cities
  • Cavaillon, linked by bus to some Luberon villages 
  • Larger stops like Bonnieux or Gordes, though these routes may be served only by one or two buses a day

Here are the bus schedules for the Luberon, which you can download or just preview online. Have a browse and you'll see just how widespread the network is. But as I said, you'll need to plan carefully because some buses are infrequent.

So yes, you can definitely get around part of the Luberon by bus, even if you won't be able to see it all.

Cycling around the Luberon

A favorite form of transportation is cycling – just beware that this is a hilly area so you'll either have to be a seasoned cyclist or use an electric bicycle, or e-bike, which makes the steep rides between villages manageable.

In the shoulder season, spring and autumn (and winter!) the Luberon's roads are blissfully empty, with the exception of the main highways. Most villages sit at the end of small, winding roads and many of these see very little traffic in the off season.

Just avoid cycling midday in July or August — the Provençal sun shows no mercy. And in the shoulder season, avoid the main roads at rush hour: people who live here drive to cities like Avignon to work, but by 10am, much of the traffic is gone.

Rental shops in Apt, Bonnieux and Cavaillon offer half-day or full-day bicycle rentals.

Start with something easy, lie the route from Bonnieux to Lacoste, short but unforgettable, with sweeping views across the valley.

CYCLING RESOURCES

Seeing the Luberon with a tour

Most tours to the Luberon are one-day adventures, or even half a day, but a few are longer.

From Avignon or Aix-en-Provence, small groups cover highlights like Gordes, Roussillon and Ménerbes. Some include a lavender field or a stop at a local market, depending on the season.

It’s not as flexible as driving, but it’s stress-free (and you can leave the curvy roads to the driver), while arguably seeing more than you could on your own.

GUIDED TOURS TO THE LUBERON

If buses and bicycles don’t quite get you where you want to go, guided tours are the simplest way to reach the region’s most famous villages. Here are a few suggestions:

Or you can take a taxi

They don't quite work the same way as in cities – you can't just hail one, you'll have to reserve ahead of time. But the price isn't excessive and if there are two or more of you, it can be downright cheap. You can also rent a taxi by the hour, in case you want to go to several villages in a single day.

Some sites, like this one, allow you to reserve online and get a quote. Or check with Provence is Calling – they're based in Bonnieux so ideal for village-hopping.

The best Luberon villages without a car

While some Luberon villages are out of reach unless you drive, here are my top choices for those you can manage without a car.

A few are accessible by bus or train, some work well as cycling destinations, and the most famous are easiest to visit on a guided tour. 

Gordes

Luberon Gordes distanceGordes, Luberon – one of the region's most iconic sights ©OffbeatFrance

Gordes is the most famous of the Luberon hill towns, with panoramic views and Renaissance charm. Sadly, public buses are scarce and unreliable.

Gordes is easiest to reach on a guided tour from Aix-en-Provence or day trips from Avignon.  

Roussillon

roussillon brightThe village of Roussillon, Luberon – ochre around every corner ©OffbeatFrance

Roussillon Luberon is best known for its ochre cliffs and red-toned houses. Like Gordes, bus service is rare. Again, tours (like this one from Avignon) are the most practical way to see it without driving. E-bikes from nearby Bonnieux or Apt can also get you there if you’re fit.

Bonnieux

Bonnieux is a steep, picturesque village with views of Mont Ventoux, and my favorite base in the Luberon. You can't use it as a base without a car, but you can visit.

Occasional buses do connect Bonnieux to Apt and Cavaillon, they don't do so frequently so plan accordingly.

A DAY IN BONNIEUX FROM APT

There's a very early bus to Bonnieux from Apt, which comes back around dinnertime. Here's what you can do in Bonnieux for a day:

  • go on a Friday and spend a couple of hours in the small but delightful market
  • book a lunch reservation
  • wander through the village – it's quite large
  • stroll through the cedar forest
  • walk down to the roman ruins at the Pont Julien
  • rent an ebike and visit nearby Lacoste. 

Then have dinner back in Apt.

Lacoste

LACOSTE MEDIEVAL STREETSMedieval streets of Lacoste ©OffbeatFrance

Famous for the ruins of the Marquis de Sade’s château, Lacoste is close enough to Bonnieux to visit by bike or taxi. Public transport, on the other hand, is virtually non-existent.

Lourmarin

Luberon chateau lourmarinLourmarin's delightful chateau ©OffbeatFrance

On the southern edge of the Luberon, Lourmarin is unusual: it has slightly better bus connections, especially from Aix-en-Provence. This makes it one of the few villages you can reach without too much difficulty, and also happens to be one of five Luberon villages on the official list of the "most beautiful villages in France".

Ménerbes

MenerbesLooking up at Ménerbes, the village Peter Mayle made famous ©OffbeatFrance

A smaller, quieter village, once home to Peter Mayle of A Year in Provence fame. No regular buses, so the best way here is again by tour or by bike from nearby bases. 

If you're cycling, don't miss the 13th-century Abbaye Saint-Hilaire, a small but fascinating monastery just a few kilometers away.

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

brocante isle sur la sorgueOne of the many antiques stalls on Sunday morning in l"isle-sur-la-Sorgue ©OffbeatFrance

Technically just outside the Luberon proper, l'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is often included because it's so close, just 20 minutes' drive from Gordes.

It also happens to be on the local TER train line from Avignon. If you can, time your visit for the Sunday morning antiques flea market, and stay for lunch (but reserve!).

Apt

Streets of Apt in the Luberon, with cheerful flags flyingThe town of Apt in the Luberon

Less glamorous than Gordes or Roussillon but the transport hub of the Luberon, Apt is easy to reach. You can get here by regional bus from Avignon or Cavaillon, and then fan out to smaller villages by bike or bus.

Where to base yourself without a car

This is the big question. If you're not driving, choose your base carefully because visiting the Luberon without a car means spending a bit of time planning to get around.

Here are several options if you're planning car-free Provence travel:

  • Apt – central, with bike rentals and bus links
  • Cavaillon – not quite in the Luberon but practical if you want rail and bus together
  • L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue – charming and reachable by train from Avignon, but no bus connections to the Luberon

Each of these towns makes it possible to either arrive or stay there car-free and still dip into the Luberon villages. Although buses aren't very frequent, my choice would be Apt, where you can combine buses with local taxis and cycling.

Sample itineraries without a car

Here are a few ideas for car-free Luberon trips:

  • Three days in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue: This is technically not the Luberon, but it's still worth a mention. Use the train to reach L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, cycle to Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, and take a bus to Cavaillon. Make sure you include a Sunday during your stay because it's market day, both for traditional market produce and for antiques. You'll get to see some villages in Provence, on the edge of the Luberon, and can rent a taxi to visit one of the Luberon villages closest to you like Gordes.
  • One week in Apt: Base yourself in Apt, use the limited buses where you can, and rent an e-bike or a taxi to reach nearby towns. You won’t cover every corner of the region, but you’ll experience the best of Luberon France travel.

The pros and cons

Like any type of travel choice, there are advantages and disadvantages to traveling without a car.

Pros

  • No stress about driving or parking (especially in summer)
  • More sustainable than hiring a car
  • A slower pace, with time to enjoy where you are

Cons

  • Limited bus service
  • Some villages remain unreachable
  • You’ll need to work around fixed schedules

IF YOU DO DECIDE TO RENT A CAR IN FRANCE...

If after reading all this you decide you'd rather rent a car, then check Discovercars to compare prices and get the best rental rates. 

FAQ

When is the best time to visit the Luberon without a car?

Spring and autumn are ideal, with cooler weather, lighter traffic and more reliable bus services than in summer.

How long do you need in the Luberon without a car?

At least 3–4 days will let you see a handful of villages by bus, bike, or tour without rushing.

Are taxis a good option in the Luberon?

Yes, but you'll have to reserve them in advance — they can be cost-effective for two or more people and can be hired by the hour for village-hopping.

Is there a train through the Luberon?

No, the region itself has no train line. The closest stations are in Avignon, Cavaillon and L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. You can then connect by bus.

Before you go...

Visiting the Luberon villages without a car means trade-offs.

You may not see every tiny hamlet, but you’ll still capture the essence of this corner of Provence: ochre cliffs, stone villages, bustling markets, and unforgettable light.

If you'd rather do less planning and organizing, guided tours will help with the logistics.

And if you ever change your mind about driving, I’ve written a full guide to driving in France that will help you navigate French roads with confidence.

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