Train travel with your pet in France
How to use French trains
How to book train tickets in France
The France railpass
Train rides from Paris
The Best Train Trips In France
What to do if there's a train strike
SNCF tickets and website
Perhaps we hanker back to those grand old days of the Orient Express, of wood-paneled coaches and crystal dining...
It may no longer be so but one of the best ways to travel in France, which is on most people's bucket list, is still the train, no question.
Trains go almost everywhere, are frequent, comfortable, cost effective and environmentally sound. You usually arrive as rested as when you left.
What's not to love?
When you travel France by train, you get to relax and enjoy the glorious French countryside: think soaring Alps, lavender fields, dramatic lakeshores and turquoise beaches...
This railway travel guide will show you the ins and outs and warn you of the pitfalls of train travel in my country.
There are several methods of transportation in France and each has advantages and disadvantages.
✓ Lower carbon emissions
✓ Comfort and relaxation, great scenery
✓ No limits on luggage weight or size
✓ You can get work done if there's wifi
✓ If you book ahead trains can be highly cost effective
✓ Train stations tend to be in the center of town
✗ Not every town and village can be reached by train
✗ Trains can be full around major holidays
✗ You may have one or more transfers
✗ Some areas around stations can be a bit rough, especially at night
✗ You can be subjected to train strikes (I deal with that below)
✗ You can't really choose your seat mates
✓ No place is out of reach, even the most remote
✓ Freedom – you don't have to stick to a timetable and can come and go
✓ You can go straight to your destination without having to change trains
✗ Driving in France can be... interesting
✗ You'll have to contend with parking, which is often difficult in popular places
✗ Cost can be high: gasoline, motorway tolls, parking
✗ When traffic is heavy, safety can be a concern
✗ Less relaxing than the train for the driver
✗ You could get lost and waste precious time
✗ You'll have to stay sober, even if you're visiting a renowned wine château
✓ Like trains, bus stations are usually in the center of town
✓ Buses often go where trains do not
✓ This is often the cheapest way to travel in France
✗ Buses are far less frequent than trains in France
✗ You'll drive along soul-less autoroutes, usually France's least lovely sceneries
✗ Not as comfortable as the train
✗ Bus stations can be in even rougher neighbourhoods than train stations
✗ Buses can be a bit worrisome if you dislike the combination of high speed and narrow roads (they aren't all like this but all it takes is one)
✓ Low-cost airlines can actually cost less than the train if you book ahead
✓ East-West transport in France is poorly served and flying may be the only way to avoid doubling your distance and traveling through Paris
✗ Your carbon footprint may be significant
✗ Airports are often far from town, a waste of time and money in extra transport
✗ Flights to your destination may be infrequent (unless you're headed to Paris)
✗ With all the extra security, a flight can take far longer than a train ride
✗ All that waiting can also be a source of frustration
✗ You're a bit of a hostage to weather and strikes
✓ The cheapest way to travel
✓ Allows you to meet people and socialize during your journey
✗ You have to trust someone you don't know
✗ You have no idea of whether the driver is qualified, good or sober
✗ You have no way of knowing if the vehicle is safe or has been properly revised
There are several trains in France – enough to get you around but not enough to confuse you.
All French trains are managed by the SNCF and its various branches, with very few exceptions for some private trains. Beware of these, though, as they will not accept your SNCF tickets and often run alongside SNCF trains so unless you see a different name painted on the side of the train, you might not know the difference. There are a handful of these, and I have to say I personally haven't come across them in my travels.
The TGV (Train à Grande Vitesse, or High-Speed Trains) travels between major cities in France at an average speed of 320kph (nearly 200mph) along specially built tracks. If you've never taken this train, it might take you a few minutes to acclimatize. The TGV whips across the French countryside passing everything in a blur of green pastures dotted with cows.
This is the queen of French trains and you should make it a point to take it at least once.
You do need to reserve your seat and buy your TGV ticket ahead of time – the earlier you buy, the cheaper the ticket. You can buy a ticket in either first or second class and if you book early and online, the price difference might be negligible on some trips, so treat yourself...
The major failing of this rail network – and of much French transportation – is that most roads lead to or through Paris. So if you want to travel from, say, Lyon in the center to Bordeaux in the west, you cannot do it directly and will usually have to go through Paris.
While the TGV train has a cafeteria car, I prefer to buy my lunch in town or at the station before boarding – the food is better and usually cheaper.
Perhaps the one thing I dislike about TGV trains is that seats can face either forward or backward. Sometimes you can choose, but often you cannot. So if you suffer from motion sickness as I do and happen to be assigned a backward seat, you might end up spending your entire trip standing up in the restaurant car... Trains that are double-deckers make this even worse if you're upstairs, because of the ultra-smooth suspension.
However, it's a price I'm willing to pay to get from Lyon to Paris in under two hours and from Paris to Bordeaux in just over two. And free wifi.
The Intercités are slower than the TGVs and link many of France's medium-sized routes, although some of these routes may also be covered by TGVs. You can decide which to take, a decision that will depend on schedules and prices.
Unlike the TGV, these trains do not require reservations. You can buy your ticket ahead of time if you don't want to bother with machines or queues at the train station but you don't have to.
In my youth, before the advent of fast trains, we used to have sleeper cars and a trip was as much an adventure as a distant voyage. Over the years they began to disappear, until perhaps one or two were left just a few years ago. But the overnight may have been saved by President François Macron, who has committed to returning these night trains to service.
The TER is the regional train, the one you'll connect to if you're going to a small town. For example, my town, Seyssel, doesn't have any large trains but I can take a TGV to Valserhône and change to a TER there. Most often, the regional trains will wait for the TGV and Intercity if these are late. However, if your TER is late, your TGV might not. So if you're starting a journey on a TER and then connecting, please give yourself plenty of time.
Contrary to France's faster trains, your TER ticket may be good for up to a week and you may not necessarily have to use it on the day you paid for it. Check when you're buying it.
Several international trains will either get you to France or take you away.
You can no longer do this. There used to be a car train from Paris to the south of France but that has been discontinued. Most people heading to the Côte d'Azur (the French Riviera) will choose to drive, or will take the train and rent a car at their destination.
You can absolutely travel with your pet on the France train system.
Yes, a bit more complicated than it should be but at least, it can be done...
If you want to reserve a ticket for your pet, you'll have to book it directly from the French railway company, SNCF.
If you're having a hard time deciding which train to take, this may help you decide:
The French train system isn't overly different from other European train systems but it does have a few idiosyncrasies that might interest you.
There are several ways to buy your France train tickets.
If you're planning on doing a lot of train travel in France over a limited time, then a pass of some sort may well be cost effective. If, on the other hand, your journeys will be occasional and not necessarily predictable, a pass will probably cost you more than buying your tickets individually.
Here's what you should know about French rail passes.
A pass is a good idea if you plan many long-distance trips or planning to use plenty of trains that don't require a reservation (which can cost extra). It's also great if you want the freedom of not having to plan. While you'll still need to reserve TGVs, you can board all other trains on a whim, in any direction.
Individual train tickets are better when you only plan to take the train a few times, or if there aren't many trains in the region you're visiting. That's rare but it does happen, for example in the Ardèche or in the Luberon region of Provence.
As you can see, taking the train in France is pretty straightforward. And since there's a good chance you'll be coming across Paris at some point, here are a few extra points to know.
The one most confusing element when taking the train to or from Paris is the multitude of train stations. Here's a quick breakdown of the main ones:
Bear in mind that these rules are more general than exact, so do check carefully to make sure you head for the correct station. Getting to them isn't complicated because they're all on either commuter lines or rapid subway lines.
Also bear in mind that if you're changing trains in Paris, you may have to cross town to do so. Sometimes not, but it pays to check.
And finally, make sure, as with all trains in France, that you validate your ticket. It's an easy thing to forget because it isn't common in most countries. If you should forget, all is not lost. The moment you board the train, find the conductor. If s/he's talking to someone, stand nearby and make sure you're seen. Then acknowledge you didn't "compost" your ticket and that should be fine. Just don't wait until the conductor starts checking tickets because the moment the verifications start, you are considered to be riding illegally.
Organizing a France by train itinerary can be a fun experience. We have a very dense railway network combined with a huge variety of landscapes, so getting on the train will usually yield something stupendous.
For example, taking the train from Marseille to Nice is a delight. Not only do you avoid the dense road traffic (especially in summer), but you'll be treated to a delightful sequence of cliffs, beaches, turquoise seas, marinas, yachts, glorious flowered gardens... the journey is a vacation in itself.
Sometimes, the everyday journey can be stunning. If you're traveling from Geneva, Switzerland towards Aix-les-Bains, you'll discover two distinct visual gems: the gorges and aqueduct over the Rhône as you speed across the border, and the beautiful shore of the Lac du Bourget, where the train was built hugging the water.
Here's a wonderful list of some of the most beautiful French train journeys.
Yes, the dreaded train strikes. They're a fact of life but they don't have to be as problematic as they are made out to be. You are not powerless in the face of striking trains: there is plenty you can do to minimize your travel by train in France, even if workers do decide to walk off the job during your holidays.
France does not usually have "wildcat strikes", or strikes without warning. They are planned, announced, and efforts are made to minimize disruption.
If your train is on strike, go directly to the station, at least if it is a large one. Unfortunately, small stations will often not have information counters. The information counter should be able to direct you to an alternate train or point you towards a bus. In France, when the trains are on strike, buses are sometimes put into service on certain routes.
Most tickets are refundable, unless you've bought the absolute cheapest. Even then, you might be able to get something if you show up at the train station before your train is supposed to leave.
If you cannot get a refund, you might be able to rebook to a later train, because even during a strike, there is some train service, although it is often minimal.
The most important thing you can do is be flexible, whether to catch another train or to find an alternative.